Xela (pronounced SHAY-la) is the shortened name for Quetzaltenango, Guatemala’s second-largest city. The name Quetzaltenango originally comes from the ancient Mayan name Xelaju, which is where the shortening comes from, and once you’ve been here for about five minutes you’ll learn that pretty much nobody calls it Quetzaltenango. And, I mean, you can see why – Quetzaltenango sounds like a mouthful, even for locals!
Xela is tucked away in Guatemala’s western highlands, and offers a completely different vibe from the tourist-heavy spots like Antigua or Lake Atitlan. The city has a genuine local feel, with its mix of colonial architecture, bustling markets, and indigenous culture, but is still relatively safe for tourists.
Plus, it’s surrounded by volcanoes and thermal pools, which makes it a great jump-off point for several hikes and days out exploring.
Contents
- About Quetzaltenango (Xela)
- Where to Stay in Xela
- Best Things to Do in Xela
- Eating Out in Xela
- FAQs About Xela
- Conclusion
About Quetzaltenango (Xela)
Unlike some of Guatemala’s more tourist-oriented destinations, Xela feels authentically Guatemalan. The city centre is filled with impressive neoclassical buildings (a testament to its very lucrative coffee-trading past), while the central park (Parque Centro América) is the heart of local life.
Quetzaltenango is particularly famous for its Spanish language schools, and you’ll find a lot of students here improving their Spanish. It’s a bit cheaper and more lowkey to study here than it is to study Spanish in Antigua or Lake Atitlán, and it generally has a bit more to offer for people staying long term. The large student population (both local and international) gives Xela a vibrant, quite young energy, especially around the historical centre.
The weather here might surprise you – at 2,330 metres above sea level, Xela can get pretty cold, especially at night. Pack layers, even if you’ve been sweating it out in other parts of Guatemala!
Xela’s Markets
The city’s markets are a highlight of any visit. The main Mercado La Democracia is a sprawling maze where you can find everything from fresh food to traditional textiles. It’s especially lively on market days (Thursday and Saturday), when indigenous vendors from surrounding villages come to sell their goods.
The Mercado Minerva, in Zone 3, is another great market with a really local feel, but it is a bus ride out of the city (and I wouldn’t recommend taking public buses alone anywhere in Guatemala, so go with a group or a friend).
Both of these markets, and any others you find in Xela, will be less touristy than markets you might find in Antigua or Panajachel, which means better prices and a more authentic experience.
Getting Around
Xela in general is quite spread out, but the historic centre is walkable. For longer distances, there are plenty of local buses and taxis, but I’d always advise to travel with somebody and not alone if you do want to take a bus or taxi. Just be aware that addresses here can be confusing – they use zones and many streets have a number as well as a and name.
The local buses (aka chicken buses) are cheap and frequent but can get very crowded. For short trips within the city, many locals use “rutas” – small microbuses that run set routes.
Where to Stay in Xela
Most travellers choose to stay in Zone 1, which is the historic centre of Xela. This puts you within walking distance of the main plaza, cafes, restaurants and Spanish schools. The areas around Parque Centro América and Parque a Centro América are the most popular but they can be a bit noisier, especially on weekends.
If you’re planning to study Spanish here, most language schools offer homestay packages with local families. This is a fantastic way to immerse yourself in the language and culture, plus you’ll get to experience authentic Guatemalan home-cooking! Most homestays include three meals a day and give you your own private room.
Best Things to Do in Xela
Explore the Historic Centre
The Historic Centre is compact and walkable, and is centred around Parque Centro América. Make sure you don’t miss the Municipal Theatre (Teatro Municipal), the Cathedral of the Holy Spirit (Catedral del Espíritu Santo), and the House of Culture (Casa de la Cultura Quetzaltenango). The architecture here tells a really interesting story of Xela’s wealthy past, when it was a major centre for coffee exportation.
Hike Santa María Volcano
One of the most popular activities around Xela is hiking Santa María Volcano. The trek is challenging but rewarding, offering stunning views of the surrounding landscape and active Santiaguito Volcano. Always go with a reputable guide or tour company – the trail can be tricky to navigate alone, so it would only really be safe if you were a professional hiker. Even then, it’s sensible to take a guide for safety reasons.
Visit the Hot Springs of Fuentes Georginas
About an hour from Xela, these thermal pools are nestled in the mountains and surrounded by cloud forest. The contrast between the cool mountain air and the hot springs is magical, especially early in the morning when mist surrounds the pools.
Eating Out in Xela
The food scene in Xela is diverse and delicious. You’ll find everything from traditional Guatemalan comedores (local restaurants) to international cuisine. The area around Parque Centro América has plenty of cafes and restaurants, many with excellent coffee from nearby plantations.
Don’t miss trying Xela’s special tacos, which are different from Mexican tacos – they’re rolled and fried, more like what you might hear called taquitos or tacos dorados in Mexico. You’ll find the best ones at small street stands in the evening.
FAQs About Xela (Quetzaltenango)
Is Xela worth visiting?
Absolutely! Xela offers an authentic Guatemalan experience away from the usual tourist trail. With its Spanish language schools, colonial architecture, vibrant markets, and proximity to volcanoes and hot springs, it’s perfect for travellers seeking a more genuine cultural experience. The city’s student population also creates a dynamic atmosphere with plenty of cafes and cultural activities.
Is Xela safe for tourists?
Xela is generally considered safer than Guatemala City but still requires normal precautions. The historic centre (Zone 1) is well-patrolled and safe during daylight hours. It’s advisable to take taxis at night rather than walking, and to travel with companions when visiting markets or using public transport. Many tourists spend weeks or months here studying Spanish without issues.
How long should I stay in Xela?
If you’re just visiting the main attractions, 2-3 days is sufficient. However, many visitors choose to stay longer to study Spanish or use Xela as a base for exploring the western highlands. Spanish language students often stay for several weeks or even months. The city’s authentic atmosphere and lower cost of living make it ideal for longer stays.
What’s the best time to visit Xela?
The dry season (November to April) is generally the best time to visit. Due to its high altitude (2,330 metres), Xela can be quite cool, especially at night, so pack accordingly. The rainy season (May to October) can make hiking more challenging, but the surrounding countryside is at its most beautiful.
How do I get to Xela from Antigua or Guatemala City?
Regular shuttle services run from both Antigua and Guatemala City to Xela. The journey from Antigua takes about 4 hours, while from Guatemala City it’s around 5 hours. First-class buses (like Pullman) offer comfortable and safe transport. It’s advisable to book through reputable companies and choose daytime travel.
Conclusion
Xela has a truly unique blend of colonial architecture, indigenous culture, and student energy that’s distinctly different from Guatemala’s more tourist-oriented cities. Whether you’re here to study Spanish, explore the surrounding highlands, or simply soak in the local culture, Xela rewards those who venture off the beaten path with genuine experiences and meaningful connections. While it may not have the polished tourist infrastructure of Antigua or Lake Atitlán, this is precisely what makes Xela special – it’s a place where you can experience Guatemala on its own terms.