Arequipa in Peru, also known as the White City, is one of those places that completely surprised me when I visited last year. The buildings here are made almost entirely from white volcanic stone (called sillar), which is where the city gets its name, and the whole city is surrounded by three impressive volcanoes.
Whilst it does see a steady stream of tourism, Arequipa is less touristy than many places in Peru, mostly because it is quite far away and hard to reach from Lima or Cusco. However, I think it’s the perfect place to visit in between Lima and Cusco, partly because it’s a nice city and partly because it sits at 2,335 metres above sea level, helping you acclimatise slowly to the altitude instead of getting whacked in the face by it if you travel straight to Cusco.
Most travellers come to Arequipa for its stunning colonial architecture, vibrant culture, and as a launching point for adventures like hiking Colca Canyon or white water rafting. But what you’ll actually find there is so much more – a city with incredible food, fascinating museums, and a much more relaxed vibe than the chaos of Lima. Despite being Peru’s second-largest city with a population of over one million, the historic centre feels intimate and walkable, making it perfect for a few days of exploration.
An Intro Guide to Arequipa, Peru
I absolutely LOVED Arequipa, and I think it’s a really underrated place to visit. It’s quite out of the way, especially if you’re travelling around Peru by bus, but it’s 100% worth the detour (and that’s saying something as I went when it was cloudy and usually I don’t like places if I went there when it was cloudy). The city’s nickname comes from its distinctive white volcanic rock buildings that gleam in the sunshine (when you actually get sunshine, that is).
Of course it’s still Peru so it’s not 100% safe, but I felt much safer there than I did in Lima and it felt fairly family friendly all things considered. The best things to do there are visit the many museums, admire the local architecture, eat and drink your way through the city, or if you want to go outside of the city: hike (or visit) Colca Canyon or go white water rafting on the Chili River. The historic centre is a UNESCO World Heritage site, and you can see why – the Spanish colonial architecture is some of the best-preserved in South America.
How to Get to Arequipa
Getting to Arequipa requires a bit of commitment since it’s not exactly on the main tourist trail, but there are several options depending on where you’re coming from. If you’re travelling from Lima, you have the choice of a 16-hour bus journey (which honestly wouldn’t be as bad as you think with the amazing overnight buses in Peru) or a much quicker 1.5-hour flight. From Cusco, it’s about 10 hours by bus through some spectacular mountain scenery, or again, you can fly in about an hour.
For those doing the classic Peru bus route like I did, getting from Huacachina/Nazca to Arequipa involves an overnight bus that takes around 10-12 hours. Cruz del Sur and Peru Hop are the most reliable companies, with Peru Hop offering the flexibility to stop at other destinations along the way. As for driving yourself, I wouldn’t recommend it unless you’re really confident with mountain roads and Peruvian traffic – the bus drivers here have nerves of steel for a reason!
I took the overnight bus from Ica (after a quick taxi ride from Huacachina) and, honestly, the overnight buses in Peru are some of the comfiest I’ve ever experienced. Taking one is almost a right of passage when travelling in Peru, and visiting Arequipa is a great excuse to do it.
Where to Stay in Arequipa
When it comes to accommodation in Arequipa, you’re spoiled for choice whether you’re a budget backpacker or looking for something more upscale. The historic centre is definitely the best area for first-time visitors – you’ll be within walking distance of all the major sights and the best restaurants. I stayed in the south-east area, which is quieter and better value but still less than a 10-minute walk from Plaza de Armas.
If you’re looking for more local vibes and stunning volcano views, Yanahuara is a relatively upscale neighbourhood about 20 minutes’ walk from the centre. It has its own plaza and the famous Yanahuara viewpoint, plus some excellent traditional restaurants. Just remember that wherever you stay, you shouldn’t be walking alone at night – even though Arequipa feels safer than Lima, it’s still important to take precautions.
I stayed in Arequipay Backpackers Hostel, and I really recommend it – it was great value and includes breakfast.
Weather & Best Time to Visit Arequipa
The best time to visit Arequipa is during the dry season from April to November, when you’ll have clear blue skies and excellent visibility of the surrounding volcanoes.
The wet season runs from December to March, with February being the rainiest month – not ideal for hiking Colca Canyon or other outdoor activities. I went in February, and although it was cloudy we didn’t get any rain. Year-round, Arequipa enjoys over 300 days of sunshine, earning it the nickname “City of Eternal Blue Sky”.
Peak tourist season coincides with the dry months, especially July and August when prices jump and attractions get crowded, as this coincides with the summer holidays in the northern hemisphere.
How to Get Around Arequipa
Arequipa is quite a walkable city, and you’ll be able to walk to most places within the historic centre and surrounding neighbourhoods. Just remember that it is at altitude, so don’t plan to walk too far with a heavy backpack or suitcase – you’ll be huffing and puffing more than you expect! It is mostly flat, which helps, but take it easy on your first couple of days while you acclimatise.
For longer distances or trips to and from the bus station, Uber is the best and safest way to get around. It’s reliable, affordable (usually S/8-15 (2-3.75€) for most trips within the city), and you don’t have to worry about negotiating prices or having enough cash like with regular taxis. Local buses exist but they’re confusing for tourists and not worth the hassle for the small saving.
Things to Do in Arequipa Peru
Arequipa has a little bit of everything: some cultural attractions, great architecture, plenty of day trips from the city, and outdoor adventures like hiking Colca Canyon, white water rafting, or, if you dare, hiking some of the surrounding volcanoes.
The city itself is packed with museums, colonial architecture, and one of the best free walking tours I’ve ever been on (it included free chocolate, always a win in my eyes, some drinks tastings, and a trip to the local farm to pet Alpacas and Llamas).
For adventure seekers, Colca Canyon is the big draw – whether you do the classic 2 or 3 day hike or just visit for the day to see condors at Cruz del Condor. White water rafting on the Chili River is anothe popular day trip. Don’t miss the San Camilo market either – it’s a assault on the senses in the best way possible!
Where & What to Eat in Arequipa
Speaking of eating! Arequipa has its own distinct cuisine that’s quite different from what you’ll find in Lima or Cusco, and food lovers are in for a treat. The city is famous for its picanterías, which are traditional restaurants serving spicy local dishes like rocoto relleno (stuffed spicy peppers) and adobo arequipeño (a hearty pork stew that’s perfect for Sunday lunch).
Yes, you can try guinea pig (cuy) here, and I heard it was much better here than in Cusco (but I didn’t try it myself). The same goes for the llama burgers that are served at several restaurants around Plaza de Armas – apparently this is one of the best places to try it, but I didn’t try myself. For the best traditional experience, head to a picantería like La Nueva Palomino or Sol de Mayo, where locals have been coming for generations. The craft beer scene is also taking off here. Chelawasi makes some excellent brews if you need a break from Pisco sours!
Money and Prices in Arequipa
The currency in Peru is the Peruvian Sol, and at the time of writing it’s roughly S/3.8 to US$1 or S/4 to €1. Arequipa is noticeably cheaper than Lima but slightly more expensive than smaller towns you’ll find along the coast. You can get a decent meal at a local restaurant for around S/25 (6.25€), while tourist restaurants around Plaza de Armas charge around S/50 (12.50€) for main courses. Hostel dorms start from S/30 (7.50€) per night, and private rooms in mid-range hotels go for S/150-250 (37.50-62.50€)
ATMs are plentiful in the historic centre, but like elsewhere in Peru, they often charge hefty fees (S/15-20 per withdrawal), so it’s worth taking out larger amounts less frequently or hunting around for free or cheaper ATMs. Most restaurants and shops accept card payments, but smaller vendors and local markets are cash only.
FAQs About Arequipa
Is Arequipa, Peru worth visiting?
Absolutely! Arequipa has the perfect mix of culture, architecture and adventure, as well as authentic Peruvian culture without the overwhelming tourist crowds of Cusco. The historic centre is stunning, the food scene is fantastic, and it’s a great base for exploring the Colca Canyon.
How many days do you need in Arequipa Peru?
I’d recommend at least 3-4 days in Arequipa to see the main sights and soak up the atmosphere. Two days allows you to explore the historic centre, visit Santa Catalina monastery, and maybe do a city tour. If you want to do a Colca Canyon trek or other day trips, add another 2-3 days.
Can you get altitude sickness in Arequipa?
Yes, you can experience mild altitude sickness in Arequipa since it sits at 2,335 metres above sea level. Most people feel a bit breathless for the first day or two, especially when walking up stairs! It’s not as severe as Cusco (3,400m), but it’s still worth taking it easy on your first day. Drink plenty of water, avoid alcohol initially, and consider drinking some coca tea.
Where can I watch sunset in Arequipa?
The Yanahuara viewpoint offers spectacular sunset views over the city with the volcanoes as a backdrop – it’s about a 20-minute walk from Plaza de Armas. For a more upscale experience, several rooftop bars around the historic centre serve Pisco sours with a view. The Carmen Alto viewpoint is less touristy but equally stunning. Just remember to head back before it gets fully dark!
Conclusion
Arequipa Peru truly is a truly special place that has something for everyone. Whether you’re drawn by the stunning colonial architecture, the adventure activities in the surrounding mountains, or simply want to experience authentic Peruvian culture away from the tourist hordes, the White City delivers. Yes, it requires a bit of effort to get here, but trust me, it’s worth every hour on those winding mountain roads. If you’re planning a trip to Peru, do yourself a favour and add Arequipa to your itinerary. You won’t regret it!
