As the capital city of Peru and home to almost 10 million people, Lima sits dramatically along the Pacific Ocean coastline with stunning cliffs and several vibrant districts to explore. While many travellers use Lima simply as a gateway to Machu Picchu or the Amazon, the city deserves attention for its world-class cuisine (it’s home to Central, voted the best restaurant in the world in 2023!), incredible street art, and world-class surfing scene. I was in Lima for 3 days last year, and I was shocked at how much I enjoyed it after so many travellers recommend skipping it entirely.
In this Lima Peru travel guide, you’ll find answers to all the important questions about visiting Peru’s capital, like which districts you should stay in, how to get around safely, and what local foods you absolutely must try. I’ll also share some tips based on my personal experience to help you make the most of your time in this underrated South American gem.
Contents
- An Intro Guide to Lima, Peru
- How to Get to Lima
- Where to Stay in Lima
- Weather & Best Time to Visit Lima
- How to Get Around Lima
- Things to Do in Lima
- Where & What to Eat in Lima
- Money and Prices in Lima
- FAQs About Lima
- Conclusion
An Intro Guide to Lima, Peru
Before my trip, I’d heard countless travellers suggest skipping Lima entirely or spending as little time there as possible. I ended up staying for a few days to relax and plan my route through Peru, and I’m glad I spent some time getting to know Peru’s capital. The city has several fascinating districts, each with its own character, and plenty to keep you occupied for at least a few days.
That said, it’s important to be aware that not all areas of Lima are created equal when it comes to safety. The city centre (Centro Histórico), while historically significant, isn’t the safest area, especially after dark. I’d recommend sticking to the districts of Miraflores and Barranco unless you’re with a local who knows their way around.
Miraflores is definitely the most touristy district of Lima, with plenty of accommodation options, restaurants, and services catering to visitors. Barranco, on the other hand, is Lima’s bohemian district, filled with colourful street art, hip cafés, and breathtaking views over the cliffs to the Pacific Ocean.
How to Get to Lima
For most international travellers, flying into Jorge Chávez International Airport in Lima is the most common way to begin your travel experience in Peru. The airport serves as Peru’s main international hub with connections to major cities across the Americas, Europe, and beyond. The airport is relatively modern although a little chaotic, and customs can be slow during peak hours.
If you’re already in South America, you can also reach Lima by long-distance bus from neighbouring countries. There are regular bus routes from Ecuador, Chile, and Bolivia, though these journeys can be very long and tiring (we’re talking 20+ hours in some cases). Within Peru, there are frequent flights connecting Lima to Cusco, Arequipa, and other major cities.
Peru Rail does operate trains, but primarily for the tourist routes to Machu Picchu, and they don’t go all the way to Lima.
Driving in Peru is possible, but not recommended unless you’re very experienced with South American driving conditions. Also, traffic in Lima is notoriously chaotic (when I arrived, at midnight, it took my transfer 2.5 hours to struggle across the city in mountains of traffic, during what should have been a 45 minute drive), and the mountain roads elsewhere in the country can be dangerous.
🇵🇪 Recommended Reading: How to Get from Lima Airport to Miraflores
Where to Stay in Lima
For most travellers, especially first-timers, Miraflores is the ideal district for your base in Lima. It’s clean, relatively safe, and packed with hotels, hostels, and restaurants at various price points. The area is well-connected to the rest of the city, and most tours and airport transfers will pick up and drop off here without extra charges. Miraflores also offers lovely parks along the cliffside with spectacular ocean views, modern shopping centres, and a generally pleasant atmosphere for walking around during the day.
Barranco, where I stayed, offers a more authentic and artistic vibe with its colourful colonial buildings, street art murals, and cliff-top ocean views. I stayed at Hostel Ancestral Barranco, which had a cosy atmosphere and decent facilities including a small kitchen.
While I enjoyed the location, the hostel did lack a bit of the social atmosphere I typically look for in hostels, and food options nearby were very limited compared to Miraflores. One thing to note about hostels in Peru is that many don’t have fully-equipped kitchens as you might find in other countries (although Hostel Ancestral does) – something to consider if you’re planning to self-cater to save money.
🇵🇪 Recommended Reading: Where to Stay in Lima
Weather & Best Time to Visit Lima
Lima is uniquely affected by unusual climate patterns. Despite being located in a tropical region, Lima sits in what’s essentially a coastal desert, creating a mild but often grey climate. The city is famously covered by a blanket of fog (known locally as “la garúa”) for much of the year, particularly from June to November.
The best time to visit for sunshine is during the summer months from December to April, when temperatures hover between 20-28°C and the skies are clearer.
Sunrise in Lima is typically between 5:30 and 6:30 am, while sunset ranges from 5:45 to 6:30 pm depending on the season. The peak tourist season coincides with the dry months of June to August (despite the fog), as well as December and January when many international visitors combine Lima with trips to Machu Picchu.
How to Get Around Lima
I quickly discovered that Uber is by far the safest and most convenient way to get around Lima. The app calculates the fare in advance, tracks your journey, and eliminates the language barrier if your Spanish isn’t great. One crucial exception: Ubers are banned at Jorge Chávez International Airport. Don’t order one from the airport (you risk paying the fare but not getting picked up when your driver is turned away). Similarly, don’t order an Uber to the airport, as your driver could be fined attempting to enter, causing delays for the both of you.
For airport transfers, I recommend pre-booking a shuttle service or arranging a private taxi through your accommodation, especially if you’re arriving late at night. Here’s my post on how to get from Lima Airport to Miraflores or Barranco.
Within the touristy areas of Miraflores and Barranco, the public buses (known as “Metropolitano”) are reasonably safe during daylight hours, though you should always be vigilant against pickpockets.
Lima isn’t an especially walkable city due to its size and the considerable distances between attractions, though within specific districts like Miraflores and Barranco, walking is a nice way to explore during the day.
Things to Do in Lima
I highly recommend starting with a free walking tour to orient yourself. There are excellent options in both Miraflores and Barranco that provide cultural and historical context. No matter where you’re staying, it’s well worth heading over to Barranco for their street art walking tour, which I loved.
The Miraflores clifftop walk (Malecón) offers spectacular Pacific Ocean views and is perfect for watching paragliders or sunset.
In Barranco, spend time exploring the vibrant street art scene, visiting the Bridge of Sighs (Puente de los Suspiros), and enjoying the bohemian atmosphere.
For history buffs, the historic centre’s Plaza de Armas and its surrounding colonial architecture is worth a visit (though I’d recommend going with a tour for safety).
Museum lovers shouldn’t miss the Larco Museum with its pre-Columbian art collection, including its famous erotic pottery exhibit.
For food enthusiasts, beyond visiting acclaimed restaurants like Central, consider taking a cooking class or food tour to learn about Peruvian cuisine firsthand. And if you’re feeling adventurous, you can even try surfing at the beaches in Miraflores – Peru has a hugely active surf culture!
Where & What to Eat in Lima
Travelling in Lima isn’t complete without diving into the city’s incredible food scene, which has earned it the title of South America’s gastronomic capital. The crown jewel is undoubtedly Central, run by chef Virgilio Martínez and voted the world’s best restaurant in 2023. Reservations must be made months in advance, and a tasting menu will set you back around S/950 (€230), but the experience of sampling ingredients from various Peruvian ecosystems and elevations is truly unique.
Beyond high-end dining, don’t miss trying Peru’s national dish, ceviche (raw fish “cooked” in lime juice with onions, chilli, and corn), best enjoyed at a traditional cevichería for lunch when the fish is freshest.
Other must-try dishes include lomo saltado (a Chinese-Peruvian stir-fry), anticuchos (grilled beef heart skewers), and causa (layered potato terrine).
For drinks, the pisco sour is Peru’s iconic cocktail, made with Pisco (grape brandy), lime juice, egg white, and bitters. I got totally hooked on these when I was travelling in Peru, and I still look out for them wherever I go!
🇵🇪 Recommended Reading: A 1-Week Itinerary for Peru
Money and Prices in Lima
The currency in Peru is the Sol (S/), and at the time of writing, the exchange rate is roughly S/4.1 to €1.
When I was there last year, prices in Lima were slightly lower but not necessarily cheap compared to Western Europe or North America.
A meal at a local restaurant might cost S/15-30 (€3.60-7.30), while dinner at a mid-range restaurant in Miraflores would be closer to S/50-80 (€12-19.50).
Accommodation varies widely, with hostel dorms starting around S/40 (€9.75) per night and decent hotels in Miraflores costing upwards of S/200 (€48.70).
Transportation is quite affordable, with short Uber rides typically costing S/10-15 (€2.40-3.60).
ATMs are readily available in tourist areas, though many charge withdrawal fees of around S/18-20 (€4.40-4.90) per transaction, so it’s best to ask in your accommodation where the closest free ATM is, or withdraw larger amounts less frequently.
Credit cards are widely accepted in tourist establishments, but smaller vendors and local restaurants may only accept cash, so it’s good to keep some Soles on hand.
FAQs About Lima
How many days is enough for Lima Peru?
I’d recommend spending 2-3 days in Lima. This gives you enough time to explore the main districts of Miraflores and Barranco, try some of the amazing food, and perhaps take in a museum or two. If you’re a real foodie or want to explore more deeply, 4 days would be ideal. Any less than 2 days and you’ll barely scratch the surface of what Lima has to offer.
What to know before going to Lima, Peru?
The city is much larger and more spread out than many visitors expect. Stay in either Miraflores or Barranco for safety and convenience. The weather is often grey and misty despite being near the equator. Spanish basics will help enormously, though many people in the tourist industry speak some English. Tap water is not safe to drink, so you’ll need to buy bottled water, as it’s generally not provided in hostels and hotels. Finally, while petty theft can be an issue, being aware of your surroundings and taking normal precautions will generally keep you safe.
Is Cusco or Lima better?
This depends entirely on what you’re looking for. Lima offers better food, a more cosmopolitan atmosphere, and Pacific coastal views. Cusco has more historical significance as the ancient Inca capital, stunning mountain scenery, and of course gives you access to Machu Picchu. Of course, the only real answer: visit both!
What is the best month to visit Lima, Peru?
February and March are typically the best months for travel to Lima. These are summer months in the Southern Hemisphere, offering the warmest temperatures (often 25-28°C) and the least fog. The water is also warm enough for swimming and surfing. January is also good but tends to be more crowded with domestic tourists on summer holidays. December through April generally offers the sunniest weather, making it ideal for enjoying Lima’s coastal setting.
Conclusion
In my opinion, Lima deserves more attention than it typically receives from those rushing to reach Machu Picchu or the Amazon. It has world-class cuisine, fascinating cultural mix, and distinct neighbourhoods each offering their own character. Whether you’re spending just a couple of days there or are making it a longer stop on your Peruvian adventure, stick to the safer districts of Miraflores and Barranco, eat as much food as possible, and take time to absorb the unique atmosphere of this Pacific coastal metropolis! By approaching Lima with an open mind rather than viewing it merely as a necessary transit point, you might find yourself pleasantly surprised (just like I was) by this underrated South American capital.
