When I was in Paracas, Peru last year, I didn’t really know what I was in for. I’d heard there were some nice islands there and it was worth stopping by to take a tour. I wasn’t prepared for how much natural beauty I’d find in such a tiny coastal town! Despite its small size (the town itself is just a few streets), Paracas is the gateway to the Ballestas Islands, often nicknamed “the poor man’s Galapagos” (I assume that’s a complement?) and the stunning Paracas National Reserve, with red sand beaches and dramatic cliffs. It also has great access to many of the desert activities that are really popular in this area of Peru.
Most travellers stop here first after leaving Lima if they’re heading south along Peru’s coast, using it as a base for island wildlife spotting, desert adventures, or vineyard tours in nearby Ica.
What Paracas lacks in size, it makes up for in location. It’s about 260km from Lima on the southern coast of Peru, and makes for a great first stop for anyone travelling this coast (which is the typical route for tourists in Peru).
I spent one night here, which most people don’t (they usually either do a day trip from Lima, Huacachina or somewhere else, or stop for the day on their way north from or south to Huacachina, which is less than two hours away). I wouldn’t say it’s necessary to stay overnight as there’s not much to see in the town itself, but making sure you get a glimpse of everything there is to see on this coast of Peru is essential!
An Intro Guide to Paracas, Peru
Paracas is basically a small collection of hotels, restaurants and tour agencies clustered around the dock. There are some nice places to stay and decent restaurants, but the town itself not an absolute must-see. One night here is plenty, and if you’re pressed for time, you can do Paracas as a day trip to see the main attractions. A lot of popular tourist bus companies, including Peru Hop and Wayki Bus, offer itineraries that include Paracas as a day stop, so you can go there without sacrificing a night of your itinerary, which is perfect if you’re on a tight schedule.
Safety-wise, follow the usual precautions for the rest of South America in Paracas: don’t walk alone at night and keep an eye on your belongings. Generally I felt quite safe there, and it’s such a small town that I did break one of my own rules here. I walked home alone at night! It was only five minutes and it was across the centre of the town (although it was emptier than I’d though) and I had a friend waiting for my “I got home safely” text.
The waterfront area is where most of the restaurants and tour agencies are located, and a lot of the hostels have views and paths straight onto the beach which make for great sunset views.
How to Get to Paracas
The easiest way to reach Paracas Peru is from Lima, which is about a 5-hour journey by bus. Companies like Cruz del Sur, Peru Hop, and Oltursa run regular services, with tickets costing between S/20-30 (5-7€) depending on the level of comfort you’re after.
I actually did this route with Wayki Bus; I didn’t buy one of their itineraries, I just signed up for this one transfer as it cost $7 which was the same as taking the public bus (with the added benefit of getting picked up right from your hostel).
If you’re traveling north from Nazca or Huacachina, the journey to Paracas is even shorter – about 1.5 hours from Ica (which is near Huacachina) or 4-5 hours from Nazca. There’s no train service to Paracas (there are very few trains in Peru in general), and while driving yourself is always an option, I wouldn’t recommend renting a car in Peru unless you’re confident navigating some very chaotic roads. If you do rent a car, the route from Lima follows the Pan-American Highway south, which is well-maintained but can get foggy near the coast.
Where to Stay in Paracas
My accommodation in Paracas was a bit of a miss. I opted for a budget “hostel” to save money, but it turned out to basically be a hotel (which was practically deserted at that), where they put me in a small twin room with this random, older Korean guy. While he was completely harmless, it was a bit of a weird setup and I think it’s really odd to put a solo female traveller in a room alone with a man!
The place was clean and functional, but lacked any social atmosphere or facilities that you’d expect from a real hostel.
Meanwhile, all of the friends I’d made on the Wayki Bus were staying at Viajero Paracas Hostel, and I regretted not joining them. The hostel has a gorgeous pool overlooking the bay, a lively bar, and organised tours to all the main attractions.
Even though I wasn’t staying there, the staff were really nice and let me in to hang out by the pool with my friends (and spend money at the bar, of course). Other good options in town include Paracas Backpackers House (this is the one I’d pick if I was going back to Peru on a budget), and if you’re looking for something more upscale, Hotel Paracas (a Luxury Collection Resort) offers beautiful rooms with sea views.
Weather & Best Time to Visit Paracas
Paracas has a desert climate with very little rainfall throughout the year, which makes it a viable destination all year round. The most pleasant time to visit is during the Peruvian summer (December to March) when temperatures hover between 22-30°C, and skies are typically clear. Winter months (June to September) can be surprisingly cool and often foggy, with temperatures dropping to 15-18°C, and the strong winds that give Paracas its name (Paracas means “sand storm” in Quechua, an indigenous language) are more common. These winds typically pick up in the afternoon, which is why tours to the Ballestas Islands or Paracas National Reserve are done in the morning and early afternoon.
Sunrise in Paracas is between 5:30-6:30am, and sunset falls between 5:45-6:45pm, giving you plenty of daylight hours for activities. This doesn’t change much throughout the year because Peru is so close to the equator. If you want to avoid the crowds, consider visiting during the shoulder seasons of April-May or September-October when the weather is still quite nice.
How to Get Around Paracas
Getting around Paracas Peru couldn’t be easier… you can literally just walk everywhere as it’s so small. You can walk from one end to the other in about 15 minutes. All the restaurants, shops, and tour agencies are concentrated along the waterfront or within a block or two of the main plaza. If you’re feeling lazy or it’s really hot, tuktuks are available and charge about S/3-5 (0.75-1.25€) for short trips about the town. Tuktuk drivers hang around all of the main tourist spots offering out rides, so it’s not difficult to find one!
Things to Do in Paracas
For trips to Paracas National Reserve, which is a must-see, you have several options. A lot of people rent bikes from their hostel or from shops or agencies in town (around S/20-30 or 5-7.5€ for a half-day), but it can be quite a long and windy ride. You can also book a half-day trip to Paracas National Reserve for about S/40-60 (10-15€) with any of the local tour agencies.
The Paracas National Reserve is a protected desert peninsula with stunning red sand beaches, dramatic cliffs, and unique wildlife. The reserve can be explored through guided tours or independently if you decide to cycle or use another form of transport.
For the Ballestas Islands, there’s only one option – a boat tour – and these depart from the tourist dock at the north end of town each morning, usually between 8am and 10am. You’ll get a better price for your boat tour if you book through an agency or your accommodation rather than with touts that approach you on the street! I booked this tour through Wayki Bus as I took their bus from Lima to Paracas, and the tour we got was really good.
The Ballestas Islands are not islands you can walk on (well, obviously you can, but you have to be a scientist for that). During the tour you’ll stay on the boat and see them from a distance. The Ballestas Islands are home to thousands of sea lions, Humboldt penguins, and countless seabirds.
The 2-hour boat trip costs around S/60-80 (15-20€) and also passes by the famous “Candelabra,” a massive geoglyph etched into the coastal hillside whose origins remain mysterious (it’s sometimes thought to be part of the Naszca Lines).
Adventure seekers will find plenty of things to do in the sand dunes, including sandboarding and dune buggy rides in the nearby desert. These typically cost S/100-150 (25-37.5€) for a half-day excursion.
If you’re using Paracas as your base in the desert and you’re not planning to stop at Huacachina, Ica or Pisco, I’d recommend day trips to any of these places (the best one being Huacachina, in my opinion). Local vineyards in this area also offer tours and tastings of both wine and Pisco (Peru’s national grape brandy).
Where & What to Eat in Paracas
The waterfront promenade in Paracas Peru is lined with restaurants serving fresh seafood caught daily from the bay. Most menus feature classic Peruvian coastal dishes like ceviche (raw fish “cooked” in lime juice), tiradito (similar to ceviche but with a spicy sauce), and arroz con mariscos (seafood rice).
For budget travellers, the small local restaurants (called “menús”) that are off the tourist strip offer set lunches for around S/35 (8.5€), typically including a starter, main course, and a drink. Of course, you can’t miss trying a pisco sour, Peru’s national cocktail, while watching the sunset. I had one from the Viajero hostel bar for around S/25 (6.25€).
Money and Prices in Paracas Peru
The currency in Peru is the Sol (S/), and at the time of writing, the exchange rate is approximately S/4 to 1€. Paracas is a bit more expensive than other small towns in Peru as it is a tourist destination, but it’s still quite affordable by European or North American standards (which hopefully you’ve gotten a good idea of with the prices of meals!).
Tours are reasonably priced, with the Ballestas Islands boat tour costing S/40-60 (10-15€) and entrance to the Paracas National Reserve at S/11 (2.75€).
There are a few ATMs in town, but they can sometimes run out of cash during peak tourist season, so it’s a good idea to keep plenty of cash with you. Most hotels, hostel bars and tour agencies will accept card (sometimes with a small fee) but smaller vendors and transport usually only take cash. Unlike some other tourist destinations in Peru, prices in Paracas are generally fixed, and there’s less need for haggling except maybe with tuk-tuk drivers or when booking tours directly from street vendors (though I’d still recommend booking through agencies).
FAQs About Paracas Peru
Is Paracas, Peru worth visiting?
Absolutely, Paracas Peru is worth a visit, especially for nature lovers and those interested in wildlife. While it’s not as essential as places like Cusco or Machu Picchu, it does offer unique experiences you won’t find elsewhere in Peru. The Ballestas Islands and Paracas National Reserve provide excellent opportunities to see wildlife and striking South American landscapes without travelling all the way to the Galapagos.
How many days do you need in Paracas Peru?
One night is generally enough time in Paracas. This allows you to do an early morning Ballestas Islands tour and visit the National Reserve in the afternoon. You can also visit for the day (although this does usually include a very early morning bus ride), or if you’re particularly interested in the area, two nights would give you time to explore more thoroughly or take additional excursions (especially if you’re not visiting other places in the Peruvian desert).
Is it better to stay in Paracas or Huacachina?
If you can only choose one, I’d recommend Huacachina with a day stop in Paracas to see the Ballestas Islands either on your way to or from Huacachina, depending on which direction you’re travelling. Huacachina offers a more unique experience because it’s an oasis, and you can do a lot of activities in both places (including a day trip to either one). Paracas is best for marine wildlife and coastal landscapes, while Huacachina is all about desert adventures and relaxation.
What can you do in Paracas?
In Paracas, you can take boat tours to the Ballestas Islands to see penguins, sea lions, and seabirds, explore the stunning landscapes of the Paracas National Reserve, enjoy fresh seafood along the waterfront, participate in desert activities like dune buggying, take day trips to nearby vineyards for pisco tasting, or simply relax on the beaches of the reserve.
Conclusion
From the wildlife-rich Ballestas Islands to the otherworldly landscapes of the Paracas National Reserve, Paracas offers a welcome contrast to Peru’s more famous mountain and jungle destinations. Whether you’re taking a break from Lima’s hustle and bustle or making your way along Peru’s southern coast toward Nazca and beyond, Paracas provides a perfect taste of Peru’s diverse natural wonders without requiring a major detour from the typical tourist trail. Make sure to book your Ballestas Islands tour in advance during high season, bring layers in case you get a windy boat ride, and set aside at least half a day to properly explore.
